Western Tack
These are some basic Western style tack fitting guidelines. For educational purposes only
Western Tack Fitting Tips
These are just basic guidelines to help you if you are just starting out, or if you are feeling confused by all the terms used in describing saddles and other tack. Each discipline/style of riding has its own set of terms and saddle/tack fitting requirements. Here we try to clarify some basics any rider might need to know for Western saddle and tack fitting.
Western Saddle fitting
Most saddle companies offer their Western style saddles in several common tree sizes:
1. Semi-Quarter Horse Bars (Regular Bars) These saddle trees are the most common, and are shaped to fit the largest number of different breeds and cross breeds. It has a higher pitch (like an upside down V) as opposed to the flatter pitch for FQHB. It is for the medium back, decent wither and often mixed blood descent (1/2 Arab, Appendix or other mixes). This saddle will not usually fit a very wide horse, and will often "sit up" high in front or pinch the withers on a wide horse. When you are standing next to your horse, gently slide your hand between the side of his wither/upper shoulder and the saddle. If your hand is pinched uncomfortably, the tree is too narrow.
2. Full Quarter Horse Bars (FQHB) also known as "Wide Tree" fits standard Quarter Horses and most stock breeds like Paints and Appaloosas. It usually has a 7" gullet, and is often used for the "Bulldog" Quarter Horse or horses with broad backs and sometimes mutton-withered (low wither) Quarter Horses. The FQHB will usually have a flatter pitch than the Semi QH bar (shaped more like an upside down U.) If the full Quarter Horse bar is too wide for your horse, the saddle will sit too low in front, and the back of the skirt may "pop" up, causing bridging and pressure on the withers. It is very important that any saddle you choose does not press down on the top of the wither or your horses' spine, as this can cause as much discomfort as a too narrow saddle. If the saddle rests on top of the wither, it is too wide.
3. Arabian Tree (Arab bars) These saddles are made specifically to fit an Arabian horse. They usually accommodate the modern Arabian horse, which is short backed and broader chested. These saddles have a narrow (usually 6 1/2" - 6 3/4" width) gullet like the Semi QH Bar Saddles, but a flatter pitch angle like the FQHB - sometimes flatter yet, than the FQHB. Much like the FQHB saddles, if the Arab bar saddle sits down on the top of your horses' wither, it is too wide for your horse. If your Arabian is very narrow/high withers, it may fit better in the semi-QH bar saddles.
4. Gaited Horse Tree (Gaited Horse Bars) Every horse is different, and no saddle will fit all range of horses within a breed type. The gaited bar, however, is built with wider bars that flare out in front slightly, (and then narrow towards the back) to accommodate or allow the big shoulder movement displayed by many gaited breeds. They usually have more "rock" than you would see in any other type of western saddle. Sometimes hard to fit, wider shouldered/higher withered, non-gaited horses can carry these saddles comfortably as well.
5. Gaited Horse Tree (Tennessee Walker Bars) This is a specialty saddle, not commonly available from every saddle maker. This tree/bar combination is made specifically for Tennessee Walking horses, which can be narrower than other gaited horses, and possess higher withers than most other breeds.
6. Haflinger Tree This is a specialty saddle, not commonly available from every saddle maker. This saddle is made specially to fit the Haflingers' unique round, low withers conformation. Standard in a 7 1/2" gullet from most makers, these saddles are great for Haflingers or short backed mutton (low) withered horses. The bars often have a flatter pitch and very little rock.
7. Draft Horse Saddle (Draft Tree) Only a few saddle companies make a riding saddle for draft breeds, but it is slowly becoming more common. This saddle is made with gullet/bars 8" wide (or wider) to fit extra wide draft breeds.
8. Pony Saddle (Pony Bars) This is a specialty saddle made for ponies. These saddles vary widely in size/gullet width, depending on which company makes them. There is no standardized "Pony" tree, in other words, you must try these on your pony or cob to determine fit. Don't confuse Pony saddle with "Youth" saddle. A pony saddle is made to fit a pony, and usually comes in seat sizes for children. A "youth" saddle is usually a horse size saddle (most come with Semi QH Bars) that have seat sizes to fit a child or small adult. (seat sizes range from 12" to 14 1/2" most of the time.)
Goal in fitting:
Make as much saddle bar to horse back contact as possible. How much is enough contact? Two things determine this;
1. How much the rider weighs. The heavier the rider, the more contact is needed. With a lighter rider, you can get by with less contact. Remember you are trying to distribute pounds per square inch.
2. How much bar surface is available to evenly distribute weight. If you have a saddle with small bars, then it is more important that all of that tree touches the horse for distribution. If you have a very large tree then not as much of it needs to touch the horse for weight distribution. Regardless of a small or large tree, a certain amount has to contact the horse for distribution.
Saddle Fitting Notes:
The proper measurement of the saddle gullet is actually 2 inches below the narrowest part of the gullet, at an even level with the side conchos.
Regular bars have a narrow angle and Full bars have a wide angle.
The western saddle has a channel, "the gullet" which spans the horses' spine like a bridge. The saddle should never sit directly on the spine or on top of the wither, if it contacts the vertebrae, at any point down this "channel" the saddle doesn't fit, or the tree is broken.
These are the major areas of concern when fitting a saddle: Gullet Width & Bar Angle
Gullet Width: In the saddle industry, there is no definition for tree width sizes. There are generic terms such as semi-quarter horse and full quarter horse, which give an idea of what type of horse the tree should fit, but there is no rule for measurement. Each tree builder has their own idea of what fits each breed of horse the best. There are several things to consider when fitting the wither:
Width
If the saddle is too narrow, there will be contact at the bottom of the bar and not at the top.
If the saddle is too wide, there will be contact at the top of the bar and not at the bottom.
Bar Flare:
If the bar is flat at the wither, it can cause the saddle to be pushed back as well as restricting shoulder movement. This is more evident with gaited horses. Bar flare can be evident in the front and rear of the saddle. As the front can restrict movement, the rear can dig into the croup if the rider is heavy and sits deep into the seat, or the horse is short backed, or sway backed. Each of these could cause sores if the saddle doesn't have adequate rear bar flare.
Bar Angle and Slope: These are areas of concern when looking at the slope of the horse's back.
Bridging: Bridging occurs when there is bar to surface contact on the front (wither) and rear (croup) of the horse's back but not in the middle. Usually, you can tell your saddle is bridging if there is a sore area or white hairs in the wither and/or croup area. Bridging is caused by one of two things:
Bend or Rock:
If the saddle doesn't have enough bend in the bar to fit the sway of the horse's back, it will bridge.
Length of Back:
If the bar is longer than the horse's back, it will bridge. This is most evident on Arabs, Paso Finos, Missouri Foxtrotters and other short backed horses.
Note: White hairs and sores/sore areas are not always a sign of bridging, it could also be a result of:
Tree width:
Explained above.
Rigging position:
As a rule, most horses do not need full rigging. They need rigging that gives more pull toward the center of the saddle or throughout the whole saddle rather than the front only. See more notes on rigging position at the end of article.
Rock: The opposite of bridging. Rock occurs when there is more bend in the bar than the horse needs, therefore it makes contact in the middle of the back before it makes contact in the front or back. Usually, when rock is visible the saddle will tip back and forth on the horse's back. When the saddle is girthed up it will tip forward with the rear of the saddle sticking up in the air. When the rider sits in the saddle it will force the saddle down in the rear causing pressure in the front of the saddle going toward the middle of the back. This is most evident on mules. Be aware if the saddle is sticking up in the rear it may not be a rock problem but could be a width problem. (See note above on Full QH Bars being too wide.)
Normally, white hair is caused by a lot of pressure in one area over a long period of time. What takes place is the pressure stops the blood flow to that area which in turn kills the sweat glands and causes the hair to turn white. The hair may never return to it's normal color. This alone is not something to be alarmed about and does not cause permanent long-term damage, unless you don't pay any attention to the real problem: saddle fit. You should consult your veterinarian about any open sores, or serious soreness your horse may develop on it's back (in the saddle area.) Before every ride, check your tack for fit, damage and protruding staples, screws or parts. If the saddle horn or pommel has any movement, the tree of the saddle may be broken. Never ride a horse with a saddle that has a broken or damaged tree.
Aren't fitting problems fixed by saddle pads?
Good saddle pads can cause the slightly ill fitting saddle to fit better. There is plenty of useful technology in the pad industry to help a saddle fit a little better and also absorb shock - you should take advantage of that technology. Padding-up to help eliminate sores from a poor fitting saddle, however, is not a good choice. For example, if a saddle is too narrow, padding up to buffer the pressure will make the horse wider which will cause more pressure. If the saddle is too narrow, it just doesn't fit, and simply must be replaced. If the tree is a little too wide, or otherwise doesn't fit the horse quite right, the proper pad can raise the front, pad the wither or fill in some minor swayback/bridging problems.
Notes On Saddle Rigging:
Saddle rigging is categorized as either single or double. A saddle with only a front rigging position is called "single rigged." A saddle with both a front and a rear rigging position is called "double rigged." The rear position is for adding a flank cinch that will further stabilize a saddle.
Rigging Position:
The position of the saddle rigging determines where the cinches will go around the horse's body and, therefore, the amount of pull on the front and rear of the tree. The position of the rear rig is always directly below the cantle. The position of the front rig is variable. The names of the different front rig positions are derived from their distance from the cantle to the fork.
"Full" position
Is directly under the center of the fork.
Center Fire
Is located halfway between the cantle and the fork and is always single rig.
Three quarters position
Is three quarters of the way from the cantle to the fork (halfway between Center Fire and Full).
Seven-Eighths
Is seven eighths of the way from the cantle to the fork (halfway between Three Quarters and Full).
Once roping became a major horseback activity in the west, a flank cinch was added to prevent the back of the saddle from tipping up when dallying cattle to the horn. To accommodate a flank cinch, new front rigging positions were developed. Today you can order custom saddles with any of these saddle rigging positions. Seven-Eighths single or double rigs are the most popular rigging positions and you will find them on most manufactured saddles. Some saddles are built with a three-way rigging plate that allows a saddle to be used in Full, Seven-Eighths, and Three-Quarters position.
1. Semi-Quarter Horse Bars (Regular Bars) These saddle trees are the most common, and are shaped to fit the largest number of different breeds and cross breeds. It has a higher pitch (like an upside down V) as opposed to the flatter pitch for FQHB. It is for the medium back, decent wither and often mixed blood descent (1/2 Arab, Appendix or other mixes). This saddle will not usually fit a very wide horse, and will often "sit up" high in front or pinch the withers on a wide horse. When you are standing next to your horse, gently slide your hand between the side of his wither/upper shoulder and the saddle. If your hand is pinched uncomfortably, the tree is too narrow.
2. Full Quarter Horse Bars (FQHB) also known as "Wide Tree" fits standard Quarter Horses and most stock breeds like Paints and Appaloosas. It usually has a 7" gullet, and is often used for the "Bulldog" Quarter Horse or horses with broad backs and sometimes mutton-withered (low wither) Quarter Horses. The FQHB will usually have a flatter pitch than the Semi QH bar (shaped more like an upside down U.) If the full Quarter Horse bar is too wide for your horse, the saddle will sit too low in front, and the back of the skirt may "pop" up, causing bridging and pressure on the withers. It is very important that any saddle you choose does not press down on the top of the wither or your horses' spine, as this can cause as much discomfort as a too narrow saddle. If the saddle rests on top of the wither, it is too wide.
3. Arabian Tree (Arab bars) These saddles are made specifically to fit an Arabian horse. They usually accommodate the modern Arabian horse, which is short backed and broader chested. These saddles have a narrow (usually 6 1/2" - 6 3/4" width) gullet like the Semi QH Bar Saddles, but a flatter pitch angle like the FQHB - sometimes flatter yet, than the FQHB. Much like the FQHB saddles, if the Arab bar saddle sits down on the top of your horses' wither, it is too wide for your horse. If your Arabian is very narrow/high withers, it may fit better in the semi-QH bar saddles.
4. Gaited Horse Tree (Gaited Horse Bars) Every horse is different, and no saddle will fit all range of horses within a breed type. The gaited bar, however, is built with wider bars that flare out in front slightly, (and then narrow towards the back) to accommodate or allow the big shoulder movement displayed by many gaited breeds. They usually have more "rock" than you would see in any other type of western saddle. Sometimes hard to fit, wider shouldered/higher withered, non-gaited horses can carry these saddles comfortably as well.
5. Gaited Horse Tree (Tennessee Walker Bars) This is a specialty saddle, not commonly available from every saddle maker. This tree/bar combination is made specifically for Tennessee Walking horses, which can be narrower than other gaited horses, and possess higher withers than most other breeds.
6. Haflinger Tree This is a specialty saddle, not commonly available from every saddle maker. This saddle is made specially to fit the Haflingers' unique round, low withers conformation. Standard in a 7 1/2" gullet from most makers, these saddles are great for Haflingers or short backed mutton (low) withered horses. The bars often have a flatter pitch and very little rock.
7. Draft Horse Saddle (Draft Tree) Only a few saddle companies make a riding saddle for draft breeds, but it is slowly becoming more common. This saddle is made with gullet/bars 8" wide (or wider) to fit extra wide draft breeds.
8. Pony Saddle (Pony Bars) This is a specialty saddle made for ponies. These saddles vary widely in size/gullet width, depending on which company makes them. There is no standardized "Pony" tree, in other words, you must try these on your pony or cob to determine fit. Don't confuse Pony saddle with "Youth" saddle. A pony saddle is made to fit a pony, and usually comes in seat sizes for children. A "youth" saddle is usually a horse size saddle (most come with Semi QH Bars) that have seat sizes to fit a child or small adult. (seat sizes range from 12" to 14 1/2" most of the time.)
Goal in fitting:
Make as much saddle bar to horse back contact as possible. How much is enough contact? Two things determine this;
1. How much the rider weighs. The heavier the rider, the more contact is needed. With a lighter rider, you can get by with less contact. Remember you are trying to distribute pounds per square inch.
2. How much bar surface is available to evenly distribute weight. If you have a saddle with small bars, then it is more important that all of that tree touches the horse for distribution. If you have a very large tree then not as much of it needs to touch the horse for weight distribution. Regardless of a small or large tree, a certain amount has to contact the horse for distribution.
Saddle Fitting Notes:
The proper measurement of the saddle gullet is actually 2 inches below the narrowest part of the gullet, at an even level with the side conchos.
Regular bars have a narrow angle and Full bars have a wide angle.
The western saddle has a channel, "the gullet" which spans the horses' spine like a bridge. The saddle should never sit directly on the spine or on top of the wither, if it contacts the vertebrae, at any point down this "channel" the saddle doesn't fit, or the tree is broken.
These are the major areas of concern when fitting a saddle: Gullet Width & Bar Angle
Gullet Width: In the saddle industry, there is no definition for tree width sizes. There are generic terms such as semi-quarter horse and full quarter horse, which give an idea of what type of horse the tree should fit, but there is no rule for measurement. Each tree builder has their own idea of what fits each breed of horse the best. There are several things to consider when fitting the wither:
Width
If the saddle is too narrow, there will be contact at the bottom of the bar and not at the top.
If the saddle is too wide, there will be contact at the top of the bar and not at the bottom.
Bar Flare:
If the bar is flat at the wither, it can cause the saddle to be pushed back as well as restricting shoulder movement. This is more evident with gaited horses. Bar flare can be evident in the front and rear of the saddle. As the front can restrict movement, the rear can dig into the croup if the rider is heavy and sits deep into the seat, or the horse is short backed, or sway backed. Each of these could cause sores if the saddle doesn't have adequate rear bar flare.
Bar Angle and Slope: These are areas of concern when looking at the slope of the horse's back.
Bridging: Bridging occurs when there is bar to surface contact on the front (wither) and rear (croup) of the horse's back but not in the middle. Usually, you can tell your saddle is bridging if there is a sore area or white hairs in the wither and/or croup area. Bridging is caused by one of two things:
Bend or Rock:
If the saddle doesn't have enough bend in the bar to fit the sway of the horse's back, it will bridge.
Length of Back:
If the bar is longer than the horse's back, it will bridge. This is most evident on Arabs, Paso Finos, Missouri Foxtrotters and other short backed horses.
Note: White hairs and sores/sore areas are not always a sign of bridging, it could also be a result of:
Tree width:
Explained above.
Rigging position:
As a rule, most horses do not need full rigging. They need rigging that gives more pull toward the center of the saddle or throughout the whole saddle rather than the front only. See more notes on rigging position at the end of article.
Rock: The opposite of bridging. Rock occurs when there is more bend in the bar than the horse needs, therefore it makes contact in the middle of the back before it makes contact in the front or back. Usually, when rock is visible the saddle will tip back and forth on the horse's back. When the saddle is girthed up it will tip forward with the rear of the saddle sticking up in the air. When the rider sits in the saddle it will force the saddle down in the rear causing pressure in the front of the saddle going toward the middle of the back. This is most evident on mules. Be aware if the saddle is sticking up in the rear it may not be a rock problem but could be a width problem. (See note above on Full QH Bars being too wide.)
Normally, white hair is caused by a lot of pressure in one area over a long period of time. What takes place is the pressure stops the blood flow to that area which in turn kills the sweat glands and causes the hair to turn white. The hair may never return to it's normal color. This alone is not something to be alarmed about and does not cause permanent long-term damage, unless you don't pay any attention to the real problem: saddle fit. You should consult your veterinarian about any open sores, or serious soreness your horse may develop on it's back (in the saddle area.) Before every ride, check your tack for fit, damage and protruding staples, screws or parts. If the saddle horn or pommel has any movement, the tree of the saddle may be broken. Never ride a horse with a saddle that has a broken or damaged tree.
Aren't fitting problems fixed by saddle pads?
Good saddle pads can cause the slightly ill fitting saddle to fit better. There is plenty of useful technology in the pad industry to help a saddle fit a little better and also absorb shock - you should take advantage of that technology. Padding-up to help eliminate sores from a poor fitting saddle, however, is not a good choice. For example, if a saddle is too narrow, padding up to buffer the pressure will make the horse wider which will cause more pressure. If the saddle is too narrow, it just doesn't fit, and simply must be replaced. If the tree is a little too wide, or otherwise doesn't fit the horse quite right, the proper pad can raise the front, pad the wither or fill in some minor swayback/bridging problems.
Notes On Saddle Rigging:
Saddle rigging is categorized as either single or double. A saddle with only a front rigging position is called "single rigged." A saddle with both a front and a rear rigging position is called "double rigged." The rear position is for adding a flank cinch that will further stabilize a saddle.
Rigging Position:
The position of the saddle rigging determines where the cinches will go around the horse's body and, therefore, the amount of pull on the front and rear of the tree. The position of the rear rig is always directly below the cantle. The position of the front rig is variable. The names of the different front rig positions are derived from their distance from the cantle to the fork.
"Full" position
Is directly under the center of the fork.
Center Fire
Is located halfway between the cantle and the fork and is always single rig.
Three quarters position
Is three quarters of the way from the cantle to the fork (halfway between Center Fire and Full).
Seven-Eighths
Is seven eighths of the way from the cantle to the fork (halfway between Three Quarters and Full).
Once roping became a major horseback activity in the west, a flank cinch was added to prevent the back of the saddle from tipping up when dallying cattle to the horn. To accommodate a flank cinch, new front rigging positions were developed. Today you can order custom saddles with any of these saddle rigging positions. Seven-Eighths single or double rigs are the most popular rigging positions and you will find them on most manufactured saddles. Some saddles are built with a three-way rigging plate that allows a saddle to be used in Full, Seven-Eighths, and Three-Quarters position.
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Different types of common riggings and rigging positions.
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The difference between Semi QH and Full QH bars
Semi QH Bar saddle trees are the most common, and are shaped to fit the largest number of
different breeds and cross breeds. The Full QH Bar saddles are made to fit stock breeds like the Quarter Horse, Paint and Appaloosa. |
Measuring the gullet
The gullet is measured from the inside edge on the left to the inside edge on the right. Directly across, at the level of the front conchos or screws. Since we cannot see the exact measurements of the tree itself, when it is covered in leather and fleece, this is as close as we can get to an accurate measurement after the saddle has been built.
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Saddle seat sizing
General rules of thumb for proper western saddle seat size for the rider:
1. Keep in mind that Western saddle seat size refers to rider fit and has nothing to do with how the saddle fits the horse.
2. There should be approximately four inches between the front of your body and the fork (or swells)
3. Your rear should rest at the base of the cantle, but should not be pressed against the back of the cantle.
4. Some riders prefer a tighter fit, some prefer a bit of "wiggle room." In general, its better to have a saddle a little bit too big than a little too small.
5. All western saddles come with a stated seat size. To measure the seat, place your tape measure at the base of the horn, and measure the distance from there to the top middle of the cantle, Usually where the actual seat ends and leather cantle begins. This distance is then expressed as a size, in half-inch increments.
The following will give you a very general idea of saddle seat sizes most customers purchase:
Child/Youth: 12" or 13" - Youth/Small Adult: 14" or 14 1/2"
Average Adult: 15" or 15 1/2" - Large Adult: 16" - Extra Large Adult: 17" or 18"
With every saddle having a "standard" seat size, choosing the right size saddle would seem to be pretty straight forward. In reality, manufacturer's stated seat size is just one factor determining the fit of a rider's western saddle seat. Sit in the same size, of a variety of different styles and brands of saddles, and you'll find significant differences in the seat fit. You might feel that a 16" Circle Y brand saddle fits you well, but a 15" seat in a Reinsman brand saddle is more comfortable.
Most standard (western) adult saddle seats range 15" - 18." Pony or youth seats range 10" - 14." Some small petite women choose a 14" or 14 1/2" seat. Saddle seats in use by the same size rider may vary, depending on the event the person is competing in, as well as personal preference. Saddles are usually chosen smaller for barrel racing, and larger for roping. For example, a 20 year old girl weighing 145lbs and standing 5' tall, might choose a 14 1/2" barrel saddle, but want a little extra room while trail riding, so she uses another saddle in a 15 1/2" seat for trails.
Mini saddles usually come in 8" or 10" size, though some companies do make them smaller. These smaller saddles are usually intended for decoration only, as they might be even too small for a child. Extra large seated saddles 19"-26" do exist, but care must be taken that the saddle is not too long for the horse. These saddles can poke the horse in the hip, or concentrate the rider's weight over the kidney area, causing distress and discomfort to the horse. The same thing can happen with "two seater" saddles, meant for a child and adult to ride together, they can also be too long for most horses.
Generally speaking, if you feel comfortable sitting in the saddle, the pommel is not pressing into your thigh, and you are not "floating" around in the seat, it fits you well enough. Anything else is personal preference.
1. Keep in mind that Western saddle seat size refers to rider fit and has nothing to do with how the saddle fits the horse.
2. There should be approximately four inches between the front of your body and the fork (or swells)
3. Your rear should rest at the base of the cantle, but should not be pressed against the back of the cantle.
4. Some riders prefer a tighter fit, some prefer a bit of "wiggle room." In general, its better to have a saddle a little bit too big than a little too small.
5. All western saddles come with a stated seat size. To measure the seat, place your tape measure at the base of the horn, and measure the distance from there to the top middle of the cantle, Usually where the actual seat ends and leather cantle begins. This distance is then expressed as a size, in half-inch increments.
The following will give you a very general idea of saddle seat sizes most customers purchase:
Child/Youth: 12" or 13" - Youth/Small Adult: 14" or 14 1/2"
Average Adult: 15" or 15 1/2" - Large Adult: 16" - Extra Large Adult: 17" or 18"
With every saddle having a "standard" seat size, choosing the right size saddle would seem to be pretty straight forward. In reality, manufacturer's stated seat size is just one factor determining the fit of a rider's western saddle seat. Sit in the same size, of a variety of different styles and brands of saddles, and you'll find significant differences in the seat fit. You might feel that a 16" Circle Y brand saddle fits you well, but a 15" seat in a Reinsman brand saddle is more comfortable.
Most standard (western) adult saddle seats range 15" - 18." Pony or youth seats range 10" - 14." Some small petite women choose a 14" or 14 1/2" seat. Saddle seats in use by the same size rider may vary, depending on the event the person is competing in, as well as personal preference. Saddles are usually chosen smaller for barrel racing, and larger for roping. For example, a 20 year old girl weighing 145lbs and standing 5' tall, might choose a 14 1/2" barrel saddle, but want a little extra room while trail riding, so she uses another saddle in a 15 1/2" seat for trails.
Mini saddles usually come in 8" or 10" size, though some companies do make them smaller. These smaller saddles are usually intended for decoration only, as they might be even too small for a child. Extra large seated saddles 19"-26" do exist, but care must be taken that the saddle is not too long for the horse. These saddles can poke the horse in the hip, or concentrate the rider's weight over the kidney area, causing distress and discomfort to the horse. The same thing can happen with "two seater" saddles, meant for a child and adult to ride together, they can also be too long for most horses.
Generally speaking, if you feel comfortable sitting in the saddle, the pommel is not pressing into your thigh, and you are not "floating" around in the seat, it fits you well enough. Anything else is personal preference.
Western Bridle Basics
HEADSTALLS
There are several common types of western headstall "styles" used... one ear, two ear, browband and hackamore or bosal hanger. They can be made out of nylon, poly, leather or biothane. To further confuse matters, there are side pull bridles, and hackamore bridles that are made for riding your horse with no bit, and some bridles that are actually a sidepull/bit combo.
Here are some commonly used bridle types to help you decide what is best for you and your horse:
"One-ear" and "Two-ear" Headstalls refer to the small leather loops on the crown portion of the bridle that go around the horse's ears.
A "Browband" Headstall has a leather strap that goes across the forehead of the horse rather than the ear loops.
A "Bosal Hanger" refers to a headstall that is used to hold a "bosal" on the horse's head. Bosal Hangers can be a one-ear, two-ear, or any style of browband headstall with enough room at the bit end to hold onto the bosal itself, and cheeks short enough to hold the bosal in the right place.
The Browband Headstall
Includes these common style types: "Standard Browband," "V Brow" and "Futurity Brow." Any type of bit (plain snaffle or shanked snaffle or curb bit) can be seen commonly used with this bridle.
Futurity style bridles are most popular on young or green horses, who are still wearing an O-ring or D-ring snaffle bit.
The "One-Ear" and "Two-Ear" headstalls
These are the most commonly seen headstalls in the western show ring today, these bridles are most often ridden with a shanked curb or shanked snaffle bit. Cowboy style (old fashioned) slip ear or shaped ear headstalls are rarely seen today. Some trail riders still use them because they are easy to put on and take off, and some also come equipped with a throat latch, unlike most standard one and two ear bridles today.
The Bosal Hanger
The most commonly seen bosal hanger is a "straight" headstall...no ear loops or browband, though it does come in many bridle styles. The only requirement with this type of headstall is that it goes short enough to place the bosal itself in the proper place on the horses' face, and that the "bit ends" of this headstall fit around the thickness of the bosal you are trying to use. The bosal is wrapped with special mecate reins, and uses pressure points on the horses' face to steer and stop the horse. No part of the bosal goes in the horse's mouth. This type of bridle is referred to as "bitless" and is used for training, trail riding and in the show pen (particularly on junior horses of many breeds, and Arabians.) Some types and thicknesses of bosals are show ring legal, and others are not. Check with your club or organization to be sure.
There are different "trends" over the years as to the popularity of the different types of headstalls, but all bridles shown below are show-ring legal:
There are several common types of western headstall "styles" used... one ear, two ear, browband and hackamore or bosal hanger. They can be made out of nylon, poly, leather or biothane. To further confuse matters, there are side pull bridles, and hackamore bridles that are made for riding your horse with no bit, and some bridles that are actually a sidepull/bit combo.
Here are some commonly used bridle types to help you decide what is best for you and your horse:
"One-ear" and "Two-ear" Headstalls refer to the small leather loops on the crown portion of the bridle that go around the horse's ears.
A "Browband" Headstall has a leather strap that goes across the forehead of the horse rather than the ear loops.
A "Bosal Hanger" refers to a headstall that is used to hold a "bosal" on the horse's head. Bosal Hangers can be a one-ear, two-ear, or any style of browband headstall with enough room at the bit end to hold onto the bosal itself, and cheeks short enough to hold the bosal in the right place.
The Browband Headstall
Includes these common style types: "Standard Browband," "V Brow" and "Futurity Brow." Any type of bit (plain snaffle or shanked snaffle or curb bit) can be seen commonly used with this bridle.
Futurity style bridles are most popular on young or green horses, who are still wearing an O-ring or D-ring snaffle bit.
The "One-Ear" and "Two-Ear" headstalls
These are the most commonly seen headstalls in the western show ring today, these bridles are most often ridden with a shanked curb or shanked snaffle bit. Cowboy style (old fashioned) slip ear or shaped ear headstalls are rarely seen today. Some trail riders still use them because they are easy to put on and take off, and some also come equipped with a throat latch, unlike most standard one and two ear bridles today.
The Bosal Hanger
The most commonly seen bosal hanger is a "straight" headstall...no ear loops or browband, though it does come in many bridle styles. The only requirement with this type of headstall is that it goes short enough to place the bosal itself in the proper place on the horses' face, and that the "bit ends" of this headstall fit around the thickness of the bosal you are trying to use. The bosal is wrapped with special mecate reins, and uses pressure points on the horses' face to steer and stop the horse. No part of the bosal goes in the horse's mouth. This type of bridle is referred to as "bitless" and is used for training, trail riding and in the show pen (particularly on junior horses of many breeds, and Arabians.) Some types and thicknesses of bosals are show ring legal, and others are not. Check with your club or organization to be sure.
There are different "trends" over the years as to the popularity of the different types of headstalls, but all bridles shown below are show-ring legal:
"Futurity Style" Browband Headstall
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"V Shaped" Browband Headstall
(Or "V Brow") |
Regular "Browband"
Style Headstall |
"Two Ear" Headstall
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"One Ear" Headstall
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"Slip Ear" headstall
with throatlatch |
"Slot Ear" style headstall
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More western headstall styles
This is a rare one ear bridle with a throat latch. Few companies make these today. For those who like a one ear look with the security of an attached throat latch.
The headstalls shown at left are usually considered to be old fashioned, retro or cowboy/cowhorse styles. |
Bosals - For training and show
This is a "strait" bosal hanger bridle, it has no browband or ear loops. These two headstalls are shown with the bosal and mecate reins properly attached. Any style of standard Western bridle will work with a bosal, provided the cheek pieces go short enough so the bosal sits in the proper place on the horses' face. The bit ends must also fit around the bosal itself. Bosals come in varying diameters and weights, allowing a more skilled horse to "graduate" into ever lighter equipment.
Once a young horse is solidly trained with a bosal, a bit is usually added and the horse is gradually shifted to a traditional bit. While designed for use on young horses, Bosals are equipment intended for use by experienced trainers and should not be used by beginners, as they can be harsh in the wrong hands. The bosal is ridden with two hands, and uses direct pressure, rather than leverage. It is particularly useful for encouraging flexion and softness in the young horse, though it has a design weakness; that it is less useful than a snaffle bit for encouraging lateral flexion. In the show ring, there are usually regulations for the type of core/material allowed or used in the bosal, what thickness it is, and what age of horse may use one. Check with your club/organization to be sure. |
The Mecate is a long rope, traditionally of horsehair, (but often made of poly or nylon today) approximately 20–25 feet long, tied to the bosal in a specialized manner that adjusts the fit of the bosal around the muzzle of the horse, and creates both a looped rein and a long free end that can be used for a lead rope.
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Other Types Of Bridles
A "Hackamore Headstall" is specially made with shorter cheeks to accommodate a hackamore. Many standard or Arabian size bridles can also go small enough to use with a hackamore (or bosal) as well, and some could work with minor modifications; such as more holes punched, straps cut down, etc. Hackamores are not generally legal in the show pen. Some clubs and rodeos do allow them. Shown to the left is a popular "Little S" Hackamore, attached to a nylon browband bridle. Note: A hackamore uses pressure points under the horse's chin (by the curb strap or chain) across the nose (by the rope or nose piece) and behind the ears (by way of the bridle pulling forward when rein pressure is applied) to steer and stop the horse. There is nothing in the horse's mouth with this type of "bit." (Even though many refer to the hackamore itself as a "bit," it does not actually go in the horses' mouth like most bits do.)
A Sidepull Bridle is simply a type of bitless bridle that uses sewn or tied on rings instead of a bit to steer the horse. Sidepulls are usually used for training or trail riding, and most shows and some competitions prohibit them. Check with your organization, judge or ring steward to be sure.
Note: Some trainers break horses in a side pull bridle, that has been modified with a (regular or twisted ring) snaffle bit on it, this is intended to get the horse ready for a bit, and used to nose pressure as well.
A Sidepull Bridle is simply a type of bitless bridle that uses sewn or tied on rings instead of a bit to steer the horse. Sidepulls are usually used for training or trail riding, and most shows and some competitions prohibit them. Check with your organization, judge or ring steward to be sure.
Note: Some trainers break horses in a side pull bridle, that has been modified with a (regular or twisted ring) snaffle bit on it, this is intended to get the horse ready for a bit, and used to nose pressure as well.
Side pull bridle with a "double rope nose." Single rope nose styles are also common. This type of side pull is often used for training. Some people wrap the nose to make it softer or more gentle, using fleece or a vetwrap type bandage.
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This is a nylon sidepull bridle with a neoprene nose. Nylon side pull bridles are also sometimes seen with a rawhide or rope noseband.
These colorful custom-made nylon side pull bridles (with neoprene lined nose) can only be
purchased at: www.darkhorsesaddlery.com |
Single rope nose side pull bridle modified with a ring snaffle bit. This type of side pull is very popular for training (or retraining) the horse to cue and steer lightly. Side pull bridles usually come in leather, nylon web, or biothane. The nose band is usually rope as shown. Nylon, leather or biothane are fairly common too.
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Fitting and Choosing your horse's cinch or girth
The cinch (also called the front cinch) is the wide strap that fits under the horse and attaches to the rigging ring or plate to secure the saddle. The word comes from the spanish word cincha, which is still in use today in some areas. On English style saddles, this part is more commonly known as a girth. Some western riders do call their cinch a "girth" but this is less common.
It’s critical to choose a high quality piece of equipment, both for the rider’s safety and for the horse’s comfort. Damaged, cracked, rusted or obviously worn cinches should be promptly replaced. Poor quality and bad fitting cinches are a major cause of an irritable horse, and can result in chafing, discomfort and ugly, painful sores.
Cinches have both a length and width measurement.
The length is measured from the outside of one ring to the outside of the opposite ring. Sizes come in two inch increments between 22 and 38 inches. The most common horse sizes are 30”, 32” and 34”.
Width is measured either in inches or, on strand/cord cinches, by strand count. Counts can vary between 14 and 31 strands.
A cinch can be either “Straight” with the width uniform, a "Roper" style with the width wider in the middle, or "Shaped" sort of like an elongated hourglass shape. The correct length for a horse will place the center strip of the cinch in the middle of the underside of the horse and the cinch rings approximately 8 inches below the rigging plates. Generally, this will put the cinch ring 4" or so above the elbow and about 4 inches behind. (This can vary slightly by individual horse, see below for "cinch position" and "heart girth" explanations and examples.)
To measure your horse for a cinch, place your saddle on the horse while he's standing on level ground. Tie a piece of string or baling twine to one rigging ring, loop it under the horse's barrel, and bring it up to the other ring. Measure that length and then subtract 16 inches (round up to the nearest cinch size) and you'll have a good estimate of his correct cinch size.
When doing this, keep in mind: The cinch should lie at your horse's heart girth, the narrowest part of the horse's rib cage.
Cinch Position:
The heart girth (also known as the girth line) is the narrowest part of the horse's rib cage. This is the correct location for the cinch. On most horses, the heart girths falls about four inches behind the horse's elbow, but horses vary and some will have heart girths that lie forward or back of this approximation.
You can find the location of your horse's heart girth by standing back and looking at your horse from the side. Look for a slight upward curve or dip in the lower line of the stomach behind the elbow.
It’s critical to choose a high quality piece of equipment, both for the rider’s safety and for the horse’s comfort. Damaged, cracked, rusted or obviously worn cinches should be promptly replaced. Poor quality and bad fitting cinches are a major cause of an irritable horse, and can result in chafing, discomfort and ugly, painful sores.
Cinches have both a length and width measurement.
The length is measured from the outside of one ring to the outside of the opposite ring. Sizes come in two inch increments between 22 and 38 inches. The most common horse sizes are 30”, 32” and 34”.
Width is measured either in inches or, on strand/cord cinches, by strand count. Counts can vary between 14 and 31 strands.
A cinch can be either “Straight” with the width uniform, a "Roper" style with the width wider in the middle, or "Shaped" sort of like an elongated hourglass shape. The correct length for a horse will place the center strip of the cinch in the middle of the underside of the horse and the cinch rings approximately 8 inches below the rigging plates. Generally, this will put the cinch ring 4" or so above the elbow and about 4 inches behind. (This can vary slightly by individual horse, see below for "cinch position" and "heart girth" explanations and examples.)
To measure your horse for a cinch, place your saddle on the horse while he's standing on level ground. Tie a piece of string or baling twine to one rigging ring, loop it under the horse's barrel, and bring it up to the other ring. Measure that length and then subtract 16 inches (round up to the nearest cinch size) and you'll have a good estimate of his correct cinch size.
When doing this, keep in mind: The cinch should lie at your horse's heart girth, the narrowest part of the horse's rib cage.
Cinch Position:
The heart girth (also known as the girth line) is the narrowest part of the horse's rib cage. This is the correct location for the cinch. On most horses, the heart girths falls about four inches behind the horse's elbow, but horses vary and some will have heart girths that lie forward or back of this approximation.
You can find the location of your horse's heart girth by standing back and looking at your horse from the side. Look for a slight upward curve or dip in the lower line of the stomach behind the elbow.
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"Eyeballing" the cinch fit on a borrowed horse or on borrowed equipment:
With the girth cinched up, here are some examples of what to look for in an acceptable fit. Be sure both sides (ends) of the cinch (the rings) are at the same level, and one side is not "drawn up" a lot higher than the other side. The girth's "D" rings should be about in the center, when looking at it between the horse's front legs. 
Above: This girth is a bit too long, there is little room for adjustment and the girth is interfering with the pad.
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Above: This girth is in the right place. It is higher than the girth at right, but it is within an acceptable range.
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Above: This girth is still in the right place, though lower than the picture at left.
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These Girth "D" Rings are in the proper place, in the center, under the horses' belly. (As viewed from behind the girth, and from the left side.)
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This cinch is a little too short, at least one size larger would be a better fit. The buckle should never come in contact with the point of the elbow while the horse is moving.
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This cinch is also a little too short, and the rear cinch appears to be too tight. The rear cinch should be loose enough for you to easily slide your hand under it, but tight enough that the horse can't get his rear hoof hung up in it.
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This video shows some popular saddling and girthing tips. Including; front girth, rear girth and "padding" or placing the blanket.
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Girthing tips
Is your horse crabby when you cinch him up? Does he "bloat" or hold his breath? Someone may have been over-tightening his girth in the past, and this caused him to become "cinch-y." For a particularly cinch-y horse, use two tie straps, rather than a tie strap and an off billet. This helps you be able to tighten the girth in increments on either side, so the horses' hair is not pulled in one direction and the skin pinched. This method can make girth tightening less traumatic for the horse. Walking him between tightening one side, then the other, also helps. Try not to over-tighten the girth or cinch, (just tighten enough to keep the saddle in place and prevent most slipping) as this can be uncomfortable for the horse. If you are concerned about safety, or your saddle tends to "roll" or shift on a low withered horse: Try tightening the cinch again, while you are in the saddle (or have someone do it for you.) The girth tends to sag with a rider's weight in the saddle, and it is alright to take up some of the slack, but remember to loosen the cinch again, immediately after dismounting! Just like us, if we were wearing a too tight girdle and then we tried running laps, breathing becomes difficult (or even painful) for the horse when the cinch is too tight! Horses can become resentful, and this unpleasant situation can lead to other problems under saddle. This can be a problem more commonly found today, because most cinches now have "roller buckles." These "roller buckles" ease the tightening of the saddle for children, women, a person with arthritis or an injury, and older persons, but it can be much easier to unintentionally over-tighten your cinch with them too.
The difference between Buckling & Tying the cinch:
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Here the rider uses the tongue buckle to snug the cinch. This is one style of securing the saddle with the tie strap. Requires a leather or nylon tie strap that has holes to accept the buckle's tongue.
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Securing the cinch using the method of crossing the tie strap over itself to secure it. Does not require a tie strap that has holes, or a cinch buckle that has a tongue. (It works if they do have holes and a tongue just as well.)
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