Adding Silver Trim To Your Equipment
Looking to dress up your saddle, or other tack? Good using equipment can be easily spiffed up with the addition of a few well placed silver trim pieces. Whether you are adding silver rosettes to your everyday bridle, or installing full silver saddle trim, it will definitely add some “bling" to your presentation. There’s a wide variety of trim designs available and just as wide a range of quality. To make matters somewhat more confusing, all saddle and tack decorative trim is generally referred to by equestrians as "silver" even if it is actually engraved aluminum, mostly nickel or even stainless steel!
Most of the standard trim available today is mass-produced. Montana Silversmiths electroplated silver trim is probably the most commonly available and well known in the market. There are also some very fine silversmiths who are handcrafting silver plated and sterling silver trim. The high end sterling silver trim by Gist, Fleming, Kathy's and Vogt are highly sought after, and they carry a hefty price tag as well. There is obviously a significant cost difference between electroplated silver, nickle silver, silver plate and sterling silver. Who makes the silver trim also effects it's quality and value, (both perceived and actual.) Here I will try to explain some differences between the standard types. Keep in mind every company produces their silver differently; with different levels of actual silver, silver overlays and some without any real silver at all. It is important to know ahead of time what you want from your saddle trim, before making a purchase. Considerations may include; ease of care, durability, purchase price, availability of future matching pieces, or top resale value.
Most of the standard trim available today is mass-produced. Montana Silversmiths electroplated silver trim is probably the most commonly available and well known in the market. There are also some very fine silversmiths who are handcrafting silver plated and sterling silver trim. The high end sterling silver trim by Gist, Fleming, Kathy's and Vogt are highly sought after, and they carry a hefty price tag as well. There is obviously a significant cost difference between electroplated silver, nickle silver, silver plate and sterling silver. Who makes the silver trim also effects it's quality and value, (both perceived and actual.) Here I will try to explain some differences between the standard types. Keep in mind every company produces their silver differently; with different levels of actual silver, silver overlays and some without any real silver at all. It is important to know ahead of time what you want from your saddle trim, before making a purchase. Considerations may include; ease of care, durability, purchase price, availability of future matching pieces, or top resale value.
A Fleming Vintage Rosette, selling around $150 each.
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Sterling Silver Plate Buckle Fleming
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Fleming Makers Mark
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Gist Concho
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Gist Makers Mark
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Vogt Makers Mark
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Modern Vogt Makers Mark
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A Vogt Buckle Set that sells for around $175
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Kathy's Sterling Overlay Saddle Trim
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Kathy's Silver Plate Trim
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Understanding The Terms
The Term "Silver" As It Relates To Tack Decoration; All saddle and tack decorative trim is generally referred to by equestrians as "silver" even if it is actually engraved aluminum, mostly nickel, brass or even stainless steel. If it is engraved, stamped, has a filigree cutout or a metal overlay in a pattern, chances are it will be referred to as "silver" even if it is not "real" precious silver at all.
The Metal Silver; As a metal, silver is a chemical element (Ag, atomic number 47), and has been widely used by people throughout history for jewelry, tableware and industrial purposes as well as a store of value. The "silver" trim you put on your tack will contain varying amounts of silver depending on what type it is. The name brand of the silver, and the amount of (the actual precious metal) silver in each piece, and it's coating or plating process will all factor in, to determining its value now and in the future.
Silver Alloys; Since silver is a soft metal, alloying it with other metals makes it more durable. One common alloy, called sterling silver or .925 silver, is 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent copper. Typical tests that are used to determine whether the surface of an object is silver, such as nitric acid or oxidation tests, are NOT useful when testing if your trim is real sterling silver, because the outer layer of the solid and plated silver objects are both real silver. Instead, you must rely on the object's markings; when a piece of silver is stamped with "925," "ster," "sterling," or a lion's head, you know that the maker is certifying that the piece is genuine 92.5 percent silver. You can also use a magnet to determine whether your silver object is real sterling silver or not. If the magnet sticks to the object this indicates that the object is made of metal coated with silver, since solid silver is not a magnetic substance. If the magnet is not attracted to the object then it is likely that the object is made of sterling silver like the markings suggest.
Sterling Silver; Silver objects of any kind come in two varieties. Sterling silver (sometimes referred to as "solid" silver) is comprised of 92.5 percent pure silver combined with 7.5 percent copper. Plated silver, on the other hand, is comprised of a thin layer of silver that has been layered on top of a heavier, cheaper metal. All sterling silver items will tarnish, and must be polished to keep them from tarnishing, but it's virtually indestructible. This is because it is 92.5% pure through and through, not a thin coating that will wear off eventually. Since it is made of a precious metal, sterling silver items retain good value for resale. Sterling silver is commonly seen in the high end saddle/tack market, it is often marked with a makers mark and a stamp or engraving that certifies it "Sterling." Vintage pieces can often appreciate in value, and brand names like Vogt, Fleming, Gist & Kathy's (among others) are highly sought after.
Silver Plate; Silver plate is neither the metal silver, nor a silver alloy. Instead, it's a thin layer of silver applied over another, cheaper metal. The layer is typically 20 to 30 microns thick, or less than 0.001 inches.
The most common use of silver plating is for tableware. When new, it resembles more expensive sterling silver tableware, but it's much less expensive to manufacture, as it contains very little actual silver. Silver plate is easy care when taken care of properly, and (until the finish wears off,) requires much less polishing than sterling. The protective finish on many silver plated tack sets may last a number of years, but it wears off eventually. Silver plate items also have less resale value than sterling silver, because it has less actual silver content.
Electroplated Silver; The most famous and common electroplated trim is made by Montana Silversmiths. Each trim piece is minted in solid brass or zinc alloy and then plated in a very thin coating of Sterling Silver (or sometimes 22 carat gold.) After that, the piece is coated with a lacquer or patented protective finish, which helps prevent tarnishing. Your electroplated trim will last many, many years with proper and gentle care. Avoid extreme heat and cold, perfumes, hairspray, lotions, hand-sanitizers, or make-up products. Also, do not soak your trim pieces in water for too long or fail to rinse away soap, if soap is used to clean it. Some types of trim are warrantied by the manufacturer, and can be re-coated, repaired or replaced. Most electroplated trim sets have a very, very thin layer of sterling silver. This small amount of actual silver increases it's value very little. Brand name and condition are the deciding factor, when assessing the trim pieces' value.
Nickle Silver; Also known as German silver, Argentan, Albata, Alpacca, or Electrum; Nickel silver is a generic name for an alloy that has a silver tone and a somewhat shiny, silver-like appearance. It is a copper alloy with nickel and usually zinc. Certain brands of nickel silver trim may also include tin or cadmium. The usual formulation of this alloy for silver trim is; 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc. Nickel silver is named for its silvery appearance, but it contains no actual precious silver unless it has been plated with silver. The name "German silver" refers to its development by 19th-century German metalworkers, and it's appearance only. The value of nickle silver trim is only in it's maker mark, visual appearance and level of wear. Since it contains no real silver, it has little appreciation value beyond these considerations. It is relatively easy to care for and durable. Many brands of nice quality, reasonable priced trim pieces are available in Nickle or German "Silver."
White Bronze; Also known as “Cowboy Silver” this hardware and trim is very durable. It can be recognized by it's weight, markings and a slight dull yellow tint. This type of tack trim is cast & often hand finished. White Bronze trim is not commonly used on even the higher end production saddles today. It can be special ordered on a new saddle or purchased separately to be put on, aftermarket.
Chrome Plated; Chromium is a soft, inexpensive metal that is commonly used to add a bright "silvery" finish to a wide variety of everyday products such as faucets, pots and pans, car bumpers, and even chrome wheels and chrome rims. Since it is a soft metal, is primarily used to plate other, stronger or heavier base metals such as nickle, iron and brass. The chrome finish on bits and saddle pieces is an extremely thin layer that was applied through electroplating.
Brass; Brass is a metal alloy made from a mixture of copper and zinc. Known for its soft golden color, it is an affordable alternative to gold itself, and is used to make products ranging from musical instruments to jewelry. Over time, brass tends to build up a black or green "tarnish" coating. This is a type of rusting, or corrosion, that is caused by exposure to the air.
The Term "Silver" As It Relates To Tack Decoration; All saddle and tack decorative trim is generally referred to by equestrians as "silver" even if it is actually engraved aluminum, mostly nickel, brass or even stainless steel. If it is engraved, stamped, has a filigree cutout or a metal overlay in a pattern, chances are it will be referred to as "silver" even if it is not "real" precious silver at all.
The Metal Silver; As a metal, silver is a chemical element (Ag, atomic number 47), and has been widely used by people throughout history for jewelry, tableware and industrial purposes as well as a store of value. The "silver" trim you put on your tack will contain varying amounts of silver depending on what type it is. The name brand of the silver, and the amount of (the actual precious metal) silver in each piece, and it's coating or plating process will all factor in, to determining its value now and in the future.
Silver Alloys; Since silver is a soft metal, alloying it with other metals makes it more durable. One common alloy, called sterling silver or .925 silver, is 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent copper. Typical tests that are used to determine whether the surface of an object is silver, such as nitric acid or oxidation tests, are NOT useful when testing if your trim is real sterling silver, because the outer layer of the solid and plated silver objects are both real silver. Instead, you must rely on the object's markings; when a piece of silver is stamped with "925," "ster," "sterling," or a lion's head, you know that the maker is certifying that the piece is genuine 92.5 percent silver. You can also use a magnet to determine whether your silver object is real sterling silver or not. If the magnet sticks to the object this indicates that the object is made of metal coated with silver, since solid silver is not a magnetic substance. If the magnet is not attracted to the object then it is likely that the object is made of sterling silver like the markings suggest.
Sterling Silver; Silver objects of any kind come in two varieties. Sterling silver (sometimes referred to as "solid" silver) is comprised of 92.5 percent pure silver combined with 7.5 percent copper. Plated silver, on the other hand, is comprised of a thin layer of silver that has been layered on top of a heavier, cheaper metal. All sterling silver items will tarnish, and must be polished to keep them from tarnishing, but it's virtually indestructible. This is because it is 92.5% pure through and through, not a thin coating that will wear off eventually. Since it is made of a precious metal, sterling silver items retain good value for resale. Sterling silver is commonly seen in the high end saddle/tack market, it is often marked with a makers mark and a stamp or engraving that certifies it "Sterling." Vintage pieces can often appreciate in value, and brand names like Vogt, Fleming, Gist & Kathy's (among others) are highly sought after.
Silver Plate; Silver plate is neither the metal silver, nor a silver alloy. Instead, it's a thin layer of silver applied over another, cheaper metal. The layer is typically 20 to 30 microns thick, or less than 0.001 inches.
The most common use of silver plating is for tableware. When new, it resembles more expensive sterling silver tableware, but it's much less expensive to manufacture, as it contains very little actual silver. Silver plate is easy care when taken care of properly, and (until the finish wears off,) requires much less polishing than sterling. The protective finish on many silver plated tack sets may last a number of years, but it wears off eventually. Silver plate items also have less resale value than sterling silver, because it has less actual silver content.
Electroplated Silver; The most famous and common electroplated trim is made by Montana Silversmiths. Each trim piece is minted in solid brass or zinc alloy and then plated in a very thin coating of Sterling Silver (or sometimes 22 carat gold.) After that, the piece is coated with a lacquer or patented protective finish, which helps prevent tarnishing. Your electroplated trim will last many, many years with proper and gentle care. Avoid extreme heat and cold, perfumes, hairspray, lotions, hand-sanitizers, or make-up products. Also, do not soak your trim pieces in water for too long or fail to rinse away soap, if soap is used to clean it. Some types of trim are warrantied by the manufacturer, and can be re-coated, repaired or replaced. Most electroplated trim sets have a very, very thin layer of sterling silver. This small amount of actual silver increases it's value very little. Brand name and condition are the deciding factor, when assessing the trim pieces' value.
Nickle Silver; Also known as German silver, Argentan, Albata, Alpacca, or Electrum; Nickel silver is a generic name for an alloy that has a silver tone and a somewhat shiny, silver-like appearance. It is a copper alloy with nickel and usually zinc. Certain brands of nickel silver trim may also include tin or cadmium. The usual formulation of this alloy for silver trim is; 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc. Nickel silver is named for its silvery appearance, but it contains no actual precious silver unless it has been plated with silver. The name "German silver" refers to its development by 19th-century German metalworkers, and it's appearance only. The value of nickle silver trim is only in it's maker mark, visual appearance and level of wear. Since it contains no real silver, it has little appreciation value beyond these considerations. It is relatively easy to care for and durable. Many brands of nice quality, reasonable priced trim pieces are available in Nickle or German "Silver."
White Bronze; Also known as “Cowboy Silver” this hardware and trim is very durable. It can be recognized by it's weight, markings and a slight dull yellow tint. This type of tack trim is cast & often hand finished. White Bronze trim is not commonly used on even the higher end production saddles today. It can be special ordered on a new saddle or purchased separately to be put on, aftermarket.
Chrome Plated; Chromium is a soft, inexpensive metal that is commonly used to add a bright "silvery" finish to a wide variety of everyday products such as faucets, pots and pans, car bumpers, and even chrome wheels and chrome rims. Since it is a soft metal, is primarily used to plate other, stronger or heavier base metals such as nickle, iron and brass. The chrome finish on bits and saddle pieces is an extremely thin layer that was applied through electroplating.
Brass; Brass is a metal alloy made from a mixture of copper and zinc. Known for its soft golden color, it is an affordable alternative to gold itself, and is used to make products ranging from musical instruments to jewelry. Over time, brass tends to build up a black or green "tarnish" coating. This is a type of rusting, or corrosion, that is caused by exposure to the air.
Cleaning & Caring For Silver Or Metal Trim Types
Gold Electroplate; You can maintain the finish of your gold electroplated trim with an occasional wipe of a soft, dry cotton cloth. If it is somewhat dirty from use, use a soft cloth damp with water, then dry with a soft cloth. DO NOT use any chemical or abrasive cleaners, pastes or polishing cloths embedded with cleaners. Gold electroplate should be cared for like silver electroplate below, because it has the same protective coating, to protect the trim pieces' finish.
Silver Electroplate; Your electroplated trim has a protective coating to keep it from tarnishing. When cleaning it, be careful not to ruin, scrub or damage this coating, or your trim pieces will rapidly tarnish and discolor. Do NOT use any chemical or abrasive cleaners, pastes or silver cleaners, metal polish or polishing cloths, as these will remove the protective lacquer and also cause the item to tarnish. Use a dry, 100% cotton cloth and a little gentle rubbing to keep your electroplated trim looking it's best instead. Wiping your item down with the cloth should remove any impurities or darkening that can occur from normal use. If that does not work, try some mild soap and a little water then gently dry with a soft cloth. Never let your electroplated trim come in contact with; jewelry cleaners, silver cleaners, treated polishing cloths, perfumes, hairspray, lotions, hand-sanitizers, or make-up. Also do not soak your item in water for too long or fail to rinse away soap, if used to clean. Any of these items can damage the protective lacquer and cause tarnishing to occur.
Once your electroplated trim begins to tarnish, it means the trim coatings are beginning to peel, flake or wear off. At this point, your piece will need to be polished with a non abrasive metal polish. Using a type of polish that leaves behind a long lasting residue, which helps prevent tarnishing, is beneficial, and lessens the need for frequent polishing.
Silver Plate; Silver plate must NOT be cleaned with an abrasive silver polish. It is usually coated with a lacquer that protects it from tarnish, so it should come clean with just a soft, slightly damp (with water) cloth. Remember to dry thoroughly with a soft cloth. Once the coating wears off, in time, the metal will tarnish. You may then use a mild, non-abrasive metal polish to control the tarnishing. Using a polish that will leave behind a protective coating, will also keep your trim pieces tarnish free, for longer. Wrap an old toothbrush in a rag, and use that to get into the crevices and engraving on the silver pieces. Then go over the silver with an old soft rag, or terry cloth, rubbing until you no longer get "black" tarnish off on the rag and the silver is gleaming. Your rag will be ruined, so do not use "good" towels!
Chrome Plated; Proper care of this inexpensive metal should be accomplished with a damp (with just water or mild soap and water) rag and a thorough drying with a dry towel. The coating will last longer if you gently clean and dry the item after use, (but only clean when it has gotten wet or dirty to prevent excessive wear.) Do not use any type of polish or abrasive cleaners on this metal until you have to, as any type of polish will encourage discoloration and peeling of the coating. Once the chromium finish begins to wear or peel, over time, tarnishing will gradually begin to occur. At this point, a silver polish should NOT be used, as it will dull the metal and actually eat through the remaining finish. You can minimize the appearance of some of this corrosion with an inexpensive multi-purpose metal polish like MAAS. Important Note: Do not use any type of metal polish on the mouthpiece of your bit! If the pitting or rust has left the surface rough in spots, use steel wool (or used SOS pads) and a little ketchup or vinegar to smooth it down and remove some of the rusted areas and discoloration. Soaking trim parts or bits (overnight) in Coke-a-cola works too, it can remove rust and discolorations from many types of metal. Be sure to wash your chrome bits and trim after scrubbing, (using mild soap) and rinse well and dry thoroughly with a terry cloth towel.
Nickle Plated; While Nickle silver has a good resistance to corrosion, you should avoid exposure to ammonia and its solutions. Use a damp (with just water or mild soap and water) rag and a thorough drying with a dry towel to keep it looking good. With age, items that have a nickle coating will begin to wear. Coatings may peel and flake off, exposing more of the base metal material beneath, which may rust, depending on it's composition. Do not use any type of polish or abrasive cleaners on this metal until you have to, as any type of polish will encourage discoloration and peeling of any coatings. You can minimize the appearance of some of the corrosion or tarnish with an inexpensive multi-purpose metal polish like MAAS.
For Nickle plated bits: Do not use any type of metal polish on the mouthpiece of your bit! If the pitting or rust has left the surface rough in spots, you can make a paste with water and baking soda to help remove different kinds of discolorations from the Nickle. Or you can use steel wool (or used SOS pads) and lemon juice to smooth down and remove some of the rusted areas and discoloration from your bit. Be sure to wash your nickle bits after scrubbing, (using mild soap) and rinse well and dry thoroughly. Horses don't like the taste of baking soda!
Plated Or Solid Bronze; ONLY use a soft cloth, with mild soap and water. DO NOT USE silver polish, aerosol sprays or polishing cloths of any kind as it will result in damage to your trim. It will remove the golden color from your bronze!
Sterling Overlay with Jewelers Bronze accents; Use a soft cloth, mild soap and water, polishing cloth or sudsy ammonia. DO NOT USE aerosol or abrasive silver polish as this will result in damage to your overlays and will remove the color from your bronze accents.
Sterling silver; For non-tarnished Sterling, wipe down gently with a water dampened cloth and dry with a soft terry towel. If tarnished, you can use a liquid jewelry cleaner, polishing cloth, or sudsy ammonia. A mild sterling silver cleaner may also be used, but DO NOT USE aerosol silver cleaners or abrasive silver polish pastes.
10KT, 1/10, and all carat gold and solid gold; Use a liquid jewelry cleaner, polishing cloth, or sudsy ammonia. DO NOT USE aerosol silver cleaners or any silver polish pastes.
Stainless Steel trim, bits or spurs; Place the larger items in your dishwasher if you have one. Using the dishwasher is the simplest and fastest way to remove built-up dirt from stainless steel bits or spurs. For stainless steel trim; ONLY use a soft water dampened cloth or polishing cloth and polish lightly. A mild soap and water can be used if item is very dirty, but remember to dry thoroughly! DO NOT USE jewelry cleaner, silver paste, aerosol or any other liquid silver cleaner, as this will damage or discolor your items' finish.
Steel (Antiqued, "Browning" Or “Blued" Steel); Should be cleaned with a light mineral oil or wax. Humidity will tend to rust steel. DO NOT USE jewelry cleaner, silver paste, aerosol or any other metal polish or liquid silver cleaner. This will damage your finish. For raw steel that has rusted, try soaking in Coke-a-cola overnight, then use a mild soap and an old SOS or steel wool pad and follow up with a good rinse with warm water. Thoroughly dry, then hand rub mineral oil into the metal to preserve the "antiqued" or "blued" areas of the finish.
Bronze or White Bronze; Never use silver polish on any type of bronze, as it dulls the finish. Clean it instead with a damp rag, (or mild soap and water) and thoroughly dry. The oxidized look is preferred and adds character to bronze trim. If your trim takes on a greenish cast, however, and you can remove the trim from the leather, you can make a paste to clean it at home. Recipe for bronze paste; Place equal amounts of flour and salt in a small bowl. Add enough vinegar to make a paste. Smear the paste on the bronze trim and let sit half an hour, do not scrub! Wash the paste off under running water, then dry and buff with a clean soft cloth. Do this only with trim pieces you can remove from your tack, you do not want any of this mixture getting on your leather!
Brass; Never use silver polish on any type of brass, as it dulls and lightens the finish, removing that "aged" golden color. If you have already used silver polish on your brass item; rub off as much of the protective coating (that the polish leaves behind) as you can. Then clean it with a damp (water) rag, and thoroughly dry, rubbing the soft (dry) towel over it several times to be sure you've gotten all the water and polish coatings off. The brass will mellow back to a soft golden color (over a number of days or weeks) as it oxygenates or "ages."
Silver Electroplate; Your electroplated trim has a protective coating to keep it from tarnishing. When cleaning it, be careful not to ruin, scrub or damage this coating, or your trim pieces will rapidly tarnish and discolor. Do NOT use any chemical or abrasive cleaners, pastes or silver cleaners, metal polish or polishing cloths, as these will remove the protective lacquer and also cause the item to tarnish. Use a dry, 100% cotton cloth and a little gentle rubbing to keep your electroplated trim looking it's best instead. Wiping your item down with the cloth should remove any impurities or darkening that can occur from normal use. If that does not work, try some mild soap and a little water then gently dry with a soft cloth. Never let your electroplated trim come in contact with; jewelry cleaners, silver cleaners, treated polishing cloths, perfumes, hairspray, lotions, hand-sanitizers, or make-up. Also do not soak your item in water for too long or fail to rinse away soap, if used to clean. Any of these items can damage the protective lacquer and cause tarnishing to occur.
Once your electroplated trim begins to tarnish, it means the trim coatings are beginning to peel, flake or wear off. At this point, your piece will need to be polished with a non abrasive metal polish. Using a type of polish that leaves behind a long lasting residue, which helps prevent tarnishing, is beneficial, and lessens the need for frequent polishing.
Silver Plate; Silver plate must NOT be cleaned with an abrasive silver polish. It is usually coated with a lacquer that protects it from tarnish, so it should come clean with just a soft, slightly damp (with water) cloth. Remember to dry thoroughly with a soft cloth. Once the coating wears off, in time, the metal will tarnish. You may then use a mild, non-abrasive metal polish to control the tarnishing. Using a polish that will leave behind a protective coating, will also keep your trim pieces tarnish free, for longer. Wrap an old toothbrush in a rag, and use that to get into the crevices and engraving on the silver pieces. Then go over the silver with an old soft rag, or terry cloth, rubbing until you no longer get "black" tarnish off on the rag and the silver is gleaming. Your rag will be ruined, so do not use "good" towels!
Chrome Plated; Proper care of this inexpensive metal should be accomplished with a damp (with just water or mild soap and water) rag and a thorough drying with a dry towel. The coating will last longer if you gently clean and dry the item after use, (but only clean when it has gotten wet or dirty to prevent excessive wear.) Do not use any type of polish or abrasive cleaners on this metal until you have to, as any type of polish will encourage discoloration and peeling of the coating. Once the chromium finish begins to wear or peel, over time, tarnishing will gradually begin to occur. At this point, a silver polish should NOT be used, as it will dull the metal and actually eat through the remaining finish. You can minimize the appearance of some of this corrosion with an inexpensive multi-purpose metal polish like MAAS. Important Note: Do not use any type of metal polish on the mouthpiece of your bit! If the pitting or rust has left the surface rough in spots, use steel wool (or used SOS pads) and a little ketchup or vinegar to smooth it down and remove some of the rusted areas and discoloration. Soaking trim parts or bits (overnight) in Coke-a-cola works too, it can remove rust and discolorations from many types of metal. Be sure to wash your chrome bits and trim after scrubbing, (using mild soap) and rinse well and dry thoroughly with a terry cloth towel.
Nickle Plated; While Nickle silver has a good resistance to corrosion, you should avoid exposure to ammonia and its solutions. Use a damp (with just water or mild soap and water) rag and a thorough drying with a dry towel to keep it looking good. With age, items that have a nickle coating will begin to wear. Coatings may peel and flake off, exposing more of the base metal material beneath, which may rust, depending on it's composition. Do not use any type of polish or abrasive cleaners on this metal until you have to, as any type of polish will encourage discoloration and peeling of any coatings. You can minimize the appearance of some of the corrosion or tarnish with an inexpensive multi-purpose metal polish like MAAS.
For Nickle plated bits: Do not use any type of metal polish on the mouthpiece of your bit! If the pitting or rust has left the surface rough in spots, you can make a paste with water and baking soda to help remove different kinds of discolorations from the Nickle. Or you can use steel wool (or used SOS pads) and lemon juice to smooth down and remove some of the rusted areas and discoloration from your bit. Be sure to wash your nickle bits after scrubbing, (using mild soap) and rinse well and dry thoroughly. Horses don't like the taste of baking soda!
Plated Or Solid Bronze; ONLY use a soft cloth, with mild soap and water. DO NOT USE silver polish, aerosol sprays or polishing cloths of any kind as it will result in damage to your trim. It will remove the golden color from your bronze!
Sterling Overlay with Jewelers Bronze accents; Use a soft cloth, mild soap and water, polishing cloth or sudsy ammonia. DO NOT USE aerosol or abrasive silver polish as this will result in damage to your overlays and will remove the color from your bronze accents.
Sterling silver; For non-tarnished Sterling, wipe down gently with a water dampened cloth and dry with a soft terry towel. If tarnished, you can use a liquid jewelry cleaner, polishing cloth, or sudsy ammonia. A mild sterling silver cleaner may also be used, but DO NOT USE aerosol silver cleaners or abrasive silver polish pastes.
10KT, 1/10, and all carat gold and solid gold; Use a liquid jewelry cleaner, polishing cloth, or sudsy ammonia. DO NOT USE aerosol silver cleaners or any silver polish pastes.
Stainless Steel trim, bits or spurs; Place the larger items in your dishwasher if you have one. Using the dishwasher is the simplest and fastest way to remove built-up dirt from stainless steel bits or spurs. For stainless steel trim; ONLY use a soft water dampened cloth or polishing cloth and polish lightly. A mild soap and water can be used if item is very dirty, but remember to dry thoroughly! DO NOT USE jewelry cleaner, silver paste, aerosol or any other liquid silver cleaner, as this will damage or discolor your items' finish.
Steel (Antiqued, "Browning" Or “Blued" Steel); Should be cleaned with a light mineral oil or wax. Humidity will tend to rust steel. DO NOT USE jewelry cleaner, silver paste, aerosol or any other metal polish or liquid silver cleaner. This will damage your finish. For raw steel that has rusted, try soaking in Coke-a-cola overnight, then use a mild soap and an old SOS or steel wool pad and follow up with a good rinse with warm water. Thoroughly dry, then hand rub mineral oil into the metal to preserve the "antiqued" or "blued" areas of the finish.
Bronze or White Bronze; Never use silver polish on any type of bronze, as it dulls the finish. Clean it instead with a damp rag, (or mild soap and water) and thoroughly dry. The oxidized look is preferred and adds character to bronze trim. If your trim takes on a greenish cast, however, and you can remove the trim from the leather, you can make a paste to clean it at home. Recipe for bronze paste; Place equal amounts of flour and salt in a small bowl. Add enough vinegar to make a paste. Smear the paste on the bronze trim and let sit half an hour, do not scrub! Wash the paste off under running water, then dry and buff with a clean soft cloth. Do this only with trim pieces you can remove from your tack, you do not want any of this mixture getting on your leather!
Brass; Never use silver polish on any type of brass, as it dulls and lightens the finish, removing that "aged" golden color. If you have already used silver polish on your brass item; rub off as much of the protective coating (that the polish leaves behind) as you can. Then clean it with a damp (water) rag, and thoroughly dry, rubbing the soft (dry) towel over it several times to be sure you've gotten all the water and polish coatings off. The brass will mellow back to a soft golden color (over a number of days or weeks) as it oxygenates or "ages."
Types Of Silver Trim Pieces
Shown at left: A common saddle trim set. Horn cap, 3 Cantle Plates, 4 Saddle Conchos 1 1/2" w/wood screw back, 2 Saddle conchos 1" w/wood screw back, 2 Rigging plates for rear girth slot, two rear saddle skirt plates and 6 cantle plate screws. This is a standard quality nickle silver set.
Saddles can come with the trim already installed or it can be added later. With manufactured saddles you’ll mainly find silver trim on show and competition models where you’d be looking to add a little pizzazz to your look in the show ring. With custom saddles, the use of silver depends on the buyer’s preference. Horn caps, conchos and nameplates are common custom pieces. Horn Cap Silver trim is available in sets or as an individual piece.
The most basic saddle trim set includes two corner plates for the back corners of the skirts, a cantle plate, a horn cap, and 4 large and 2 small conchos. In addition to these pieces, you’ll find silver trim designed for accenting stirrups and tapadaros, fenders, swells, rigging plates, latigo holders, buckles, breast plates on breast collars. Just about any saddle, breastcollar or bridle part can receive some extra flash. Keep in mind that silver trim adds weight to your saddle and is also one more thing to take care of.
Silver trim is also available for saddle pads and blankets. This type of trim is most common with show tack. You'll find silver conchos and silver bars available for holding competition numbers in place. The trim usually attaches with either Chicago screws or with cufflink backs.
Regardless of which type of real or imitation silver trim you decide to use to dress up your tack, you can be sure it will add an extra level of attractiveness, and a traditional sense of Americana to your presentation!
Saddles can come with the trim already installed or it can be added later. With manufactured saddles you’ll mainly find silver trim on show and competition models where you’d be looking to add a little pizzazz to your look in the show ring. With custom saddles, the use of silver depends on the buyer’s preference. Horn caps, conchos and nameplates are common custom pieces. Horn Cap Silver trim is available in sets or as an individual piece.
The most basic saddle trim set includes two corner plates for the back corners of the skirts, a cantle plate, a horn cap, and 4 large and 2 small conchos. In addition to these pieces, you’ll find silver trim designed for accenting stirrups and tapadaros, fenders, swells, rigging plates, latigo holders, buckles, breast plates on breast collars. Just about any saddle, breastcollar or bridle part can receive some extra flash. Keep in mind that silver trim adds weight to your saddle and is also one more thing to take care of.
Silver trim is also available for saddle pads and blankets. This type of trim is most common with show tack. You'll find silver conchos and silver bars available for holding competition numbers in place. The trim usually attaches with either Chicago screws or with cufflink backs.
Regardless of which type of real or imitation silver trim you decide to use to dress up your tack, you can be sure it will add an extra level of attractiveness, and a traditional sense of Americana to your presentation!
